Scarba!

Ooh! Neil spotted that I forgot one island in the 2024 round up.

Neil can catch a sunset anywhere but look closer, that water is up to something

Scarba, in the Sound of Luing, in the Forth of Lorn. Physically part of the Slate Islands but not officially part of them.

At this tranquil campsite I slid down a rockslide, my Jetboil stove set fire to itself and Alan slipped badly on the beach. So it was "Stuff Happens Camp". Maybe that's why I forgot Scarba in the 2024 round up.

This really is a lovely area to paddle. So much variety. Corryveckan and the Grey Dogs are the famous hotspots. Scarba sits proudly between them, Correyveckan to the south between Scarba and Jura, the Grey Dogs to the north.You can hear the Correyveckan before you see it. It's a good enough warning, if you need it, not to get sucked in.

If you are planning a trip to the area it is worth getting hold of a copy of Patrick H Gillies's guide, "Netherlorn", published in 1909 but now available online or as a printed facsimile through "Forgotten Books". Honestly, you'll get more from this book than anything more recent. Gillies's enthusiasm is infectious, his descriptive prose magnificently ambitious.

I got my copy on abe books

https://www.abebooks.co.uk/servlet/BookDetailsPL?bi=31040343193

Gillies quotes two descriptions of the Correyvechan: Archibald Sinclair, the island's schoolmaster in 1845 declares "the cause of it (the Correyvechan) is yet unknown but we must believe that there is a miraculous submaritime vortex that causes a constipation of billows so as to cause them to reverberate in the calmest of weather." Gillies quotes the much earlier but surprisingly accurate Dinnseanchus: “It is the confluence of many seas, each pouring itself into the place of the other, until they are swallowed down to the bottom, and until it is like an open cauldron, sucking and disgorging its draughts, so that its roaring is like distant thunder."

The Correyveckan at full blast. Photo Visit Scotland

Scarba is bookended by drama but you can get your kicks gently. As you cross the Firth the water is shallow with reefs below. The surface swirls and billows mysteriously. Don't let it worry you, just let your boat find its way, sit back and enjoy it. You could spend days just twiddling up and down the streams and alleys that dissect the islands.

At the western end of some of the stream alleys dissecting the islands there are distinct drops making nice little play features. Photo by Alan.

Or you can just watch the otters play. AI generated image.

This eagle could hardly be bothered to lollop off. A friend joined it. Photo by Amy

The wildlife is extraordinary all the way down the string of islands. Otters and eagles make it clear that they are at home and in charge. Pass by if you will but mind your manners.

Scarba rockpools looked like slate to me but they are not part of the Slate Islands officially. Alan said this is one of his favourite areas to paddle and I can see why.

Scarba rockpool. Photo by Pen